Type A, Type B & Type C LED Tubes: The Complete Guide

Shopping for LED tubes, you'll immediately hit the labels Type A, Type B, Type C, and Type A+B. They all describe one thing: how the tube handles your fixture's ballast. Choosing correctly determines how hard the install is, how efficient the result, and how reliable it'll be. Here's everything you need.

Electrical work carries risk. If wiring is involved and you're unsure, hire a licensed electrician. See our safety disclaimer.

First, What's a Ballast?

A fluorescent fixture uses a ballast to regulate current to the tube. LED tubes don't need a fluorescent ballast — so the "type" tells you whether the LED works with it, without it, or with a new driver.

Type A — Ballast-Compatible (Plug-and-Play)

Works with your existing electronic ballast. Pull the fluorescent tube, drop in the LED — done. No wiring.

Pros: Easiest, fastest install; reversible; great for many fixtures at once. Cons: Still relies on the ballast (small energy draw, and the lamp dies when the ballast eventually fails); only compatible with certain ballasts. Best for: quick retrofits with a healthy electronic ballast.

Type B — Ballast-Bypass (Direct Wire)

Runs on line voltage (120–277V) with the ballast removed from the circuit. Requires rewiring the tombstones/sockets.

Pros: Most efficient (no ballast losses); no ballast to fail; works regardless of old ballast brand. Cons: Requires rewiring — best by an electrician; single-ended vs double-ended wiring must match the tube. Best for: old fixtures, failing ballasts, maximum long-term savings.

Type C — External LED Driver

The ballast is replaced with a dedicated LED driver that powers the tube. Think of it like Type B but with a purpose-built power supply instead of line voltage.

Pros: Best performance and smooth dimming; flicker-free; highest efficiency. Cons: Most components and labor; driver adds cost. Best for: large commercial retrofits and dimmable installations.

Type A+B — Universal (Hybrid)

A dual-mode tube that works either on the existing ballast (like Type A) or ballast-bypassed after rewiring (like Type B). Install plug-and-play today; convert to direct-wire later when the ballast fails. The most flexible and increasingly popular choice — many of our 4-ft and U-bend tubes are Type A+B.

Single-Ended vs Double-Ended (for Type B)

Ballast-bypass tubes wire either single-ended (line and neutral on one end) or double-ended (line on one end, neutral on the other). The tube and your rewire must match — always follow the specific tube's wiring diagram and use non-shunted tombstones where required.

Quick Decision Guide

• Easiest swap, ballast works → Type A
• Max efficiency, ballast old/failing → Type B
• Dimming or big commercial job → Type C
• Want flexibility now and later → Type A+B

Find the Right Tube

Our LED Tubes collection labels each tube's type, size, wattage, lumens, and color so you can match your fixture and skill level. For most retrofits, Type A+B universal tubes give the best of both worlds.